Monday, August 07, 2006

England Travelogue - 4

I hiked up the Hampsfell Scar. It was the place I came to England to see, although I did not know it until I was there. It was the place that fulfilled every Jane Austin fantasy I had about England. I'm not sure what a 'scar' is. We wondered about all the quaint names for things and I wished I had a Middle or Old English reference to look them up. Cheryl asked a native and learned that a 'fell' is a valley and a 'tarn' is a small mountain or big hill. I think a 'beck' is a small stream or spring. There were lots of words like that - they all seemed vaguely familiar and pleasant as if I'd known them at some point and merely forgotten.

The Hampsfell Scar is a hill - not sure if it is high enough to be a tarn - with meadows and rock outcroppings and ancient stone walls. I hiked through some woods and climbed over a very old stile set into the wall. Then it opened out into this:



At the highest point was an old stone structure called a hospice. It was basically a shelter for walkers. It had a stone hearth inside and Roman writing over the entrance. It looked a bit forbidding as I approached it. There was a man inside, writing in a journal. I wasn't scared. I climbed a very narrow set of stone stairs to the roof. It was a warm and blustery day, my hair whipped about my face. There was a signpost pointing the direction to various towns and landmarks, near and far:



There were 360-degree views. Out over Morecambe Bay to the west:


To England in the east:


I sat up there for a long time, the wind from Morecambe Bay in my face, my heart aching for something lost I could not name.

4 comments:

Don Cummings said...

Ah....you just got in synch with you.
I felt this way in Ireland. It just made so much sense when I was.

Don Cummings said...

there.

Anonymous said...

Great pictures.

A "Scar" (only used in the North)is where a slope is too steep for soil and plants, so the underlying rock is exposed. They are usually near-vertical limestone outcrops, lying in long lines along the top or sides of a hill.

A "tarn" isn't a type of hill - it is a small lake lying up in the hills. They often lie in the bottom of Cwms (Coombes) surrounded by hills and they look lovely when seen from above reflecting the skyline, the sky and the clouds. One of the most famous is "Tarn Howes" in the Lake District, although the name really refers to the low hills (howes) that surround the tarn. Tarn is a Northern (Viking/Danish/Norse) word.

Rebecca Waring said...

Dear Anonymous,

Thanks for the vocabulary lesson! These words sound so charming to the American ear. Like something out of another world - Tolkien maybe.